September 10th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Extra Fine 7 ct. Ceylon Sapphire in Mardon Custom Ring
Blue sapphires are found in many countries worldwide. The geological conditions in which they form determine the quality of the sapphire crystals. Some locales are known to produce exceptionally fine crystals, yielding extra fine gems. Each locale produces a range of gem material that shares common characteristics that are directly related to its unique geology. The unique characteristics of each source allow us to classify many sapphires by their country of origin.
Country of origin can have a significant effect on the value of a gemstone, especially when the stone is large and of fine quality. A certificate of origin from a top lab like GIA or GRS can make or break the sale of a fine stone. Determining the origin of a blue sapphire may be as straightforward as expert examination in a gemological microscope of inclusions and other characteristics, but it can require more sophisticated spectroscopic and other high level testing available only in the top labs. Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: alluvial mining, Burma, Ceylon, county of origin, gem gravel, GIA, GRS, heat treatment, Kashmir, Madagascar, Mogok, Sri Lanka
Posted in Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones | 1 Comment »
September 5th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG
The characteristics of any gemstone are directly related to the crystal from which it is cut, so it’s important to understand how the physical nature of the crystal influences the color of the gem. In the case of blue sapphire, one of the more common crystal forms is an elongated six sided dipyramidal form, as shown below.

Well Formed Sapphire Crystal
Sapphire crystals form in the hexagonal system, with the long axis (z) intersected at 90 degrees by six axes (x,y) rotated 30 degrees apart. In this crystal, the z axis centers the crystal from long point to long point, and the six flat sides of the dipyramids are perpendicular to the x & y axes Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: color zoning, heat treatment, hexagonal crystal system, pleochroism, silk
Posted in Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones, Jewelry Facts | Comments Off on What is the Best Color for Blue Sapphire? Part 2
September 3rd, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Classic Blue Natural Sapphire
Our clients often ask “What is the best color blue sapphire?” There are two answers– the obvious is that personal preference should dictate your color choice. Every person has unique abilities to perceive color, based on such things as age, health, culture and genetic gifts. Some people prefer light pastel colors, others prefer rich intense colors. The best color for you is the one that pleases, stimulates, or excites you!
The more complicated answer has to do with gem grading and market preferences, the physical characteristics of natural sapphires, the geological sources of sapphire including Ceylon, Burma, Kashmir, Madagascar, Thailand, Australia, and Montana, and the various methods of color enhancement and heat treatment of sapphire. We’ll begin by discussing gem grading and market preferences.
Color is a very complicated phenomenon in gemstones, presenting many challenges for gemologists and gem traders. We begin by grading the color of blue sapphires in terms of hue, tone, and intensity– for a thorough discussion of color grading gems, visit the color grading page at our Gallery of Gems. Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: Australia, blue sapphire, Burma, Ceylon, heat treatment, hue, Kashmir, Madagascar, Montana, saturation, Thailand, tone
Posted in Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones | 3 Comments »
August 29th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

5.69 ct. Burma Peridot
A couple of years ago, a local attorney’s wife was in our store, browsing some colored stone jewelry in the estate case. I asked if she had any favorite gemstones– “none in particular”– so I asked about her birthstone. She replied “Oh, I don’t like my birthstone, it’s peridot.” Read the rest of this entry »
Posted in Custom Jewelry, Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones, Jewelry Facts | Comments Off on Peridot- the “I don’t like my birthstone” Birthstone, Part 3
August 29th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Custom Peridot Pendant
Last August, our client, Meryl, was in our store getting a ring sized when she mentioned that she had never liked her birthstone, the peridot. A challenge like that is hard for a jeweler and gemstone lover to refuse, so I showed her this grand 5.o6 ct. peridot from Burma. She was delighted and entranced by the beauty of this wonderful gem– and it matched perfectly with the beautiful new sweater outfit she planned to wear to her son’s wedding in January.
I quickly sketched out and presented a design for a white and yellow gold pendant surrounded by diamonds. The white sparkle and fire of the diamonds, set in white gold, accent and contrast the color of the center gem. I also suggested some unusual pierced work along the undersides of the piece. She loved the concept and gave us the go ahead. Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: Burma, CAD, Custom Jewelry, jewelry designers, JewelSmith, peridot
Posted in Custom Jewelry, Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones | Comments Off on Peridot- the “I don’t like my birthstone” Birthstone, Part 2
August 12th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG
Art Nouveau Watch Hanger
One of the great things about the jewelry business is that every so often, we get to see and handle truly wonderful jewelry and gemstones. This classic Art Nouveau enameled brooch is exquisite– the sculpting of the woman’s face is delicate and lifelike while the swirls of her hair and the floral elements are beautifully expressive of the vitality of life. The delicate pink opalescent enamel, still in perfect condition after 100 years, is wonderfully shaded, and the face and flower petals are carefully accented by precise painted enamels.
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Posted in Estate Jewelry, Jewelry Services | Comments Off on A Perfect Flower from the days of L’ Art Nouveau
August 6th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

7.56 ct. Burma Peridot
We often hear statements like “I don’t like my birthstone” from folks born in August. In most cases, these people have never seen a really good peridot, so we make it our mission to show them gorgeous gems like this magnificent Burmese Peridot.
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Tags: August, birthstone, Burma, green, Hawaii, mined in the US, peridot, San Carlos peridot
Posted in Custom Jewelry, Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones | Comments Off on Peridot- the “I don’t like my birthstone” Birthstone, Part 1
August 1st, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG
Only 5 days left to vote for your favorite merchants, food, entertainment, etc.
Posted in Custom Jewelry, Estate Jewelry, Jewelry Services, Mardon Happenings | Comments Off on Vote for Mardon, Reader’s Choice, Riverside Press Enterprise
July 31st, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Nice Violetish Blue Natural Spinel
As a followup to yesterday’s blog, I thought it would be nice to show another side of the spinel family. This lovely 4.28 ct. spinel is chemically a bit different than the classic red stones we looked at yesterday– spinels are members of a family of minerals, all of which are oxides of 2 metals. The reds are oxides of magnesium and aluminum. This gem is probably gahnospinel, an oxide of zinc and aluminum, although it may have a bit of magnesium as well.
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Tags: gahnospinel, natural color gems, non heated gems, Phil Zahm, spinel
Posted in Estate Jewelry, Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones, Mardon Happenings | Comments Off on Spinels on Sale!
July 30th, 2009 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Magnificent 5.55 ct. Natural Spinel
A few years back, we found this gorgeous red gem for a close friend. She wanted a rich dark red stone and being a true princess, she wanted it big and dramatic. Rubies of this color and clarity are astronomical in price, usually reaching at least six figures. Even though hubby was very successful, the price of a good ruby put him into sticker shock. Our perfect solution was this fabulous natural spinel from Vietnam.
Custom 18K Ring with 5.55 ct. Vietnamese Spinel, by Mardon
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Tags: Balas Ruby, Black Prince's Ruby, Burma, spinel, Vietnam
Posted in Custom Jewelry, Gemstone of the Month, Gemstones, Jewelry Facts, Jewelry Services | Comments Off on The Other “Ruby”