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Put A Ring On It: The One-of-a-Kind Custom Engagement Ring, Chapter One

November 28th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Recently, we had the pleasure of creating a one-of-a-kind engagement ring for a young man who is a student at our local Cal Baptist University, and is also in the Marine Corps.  As you might expect, our Cal Baptist clients take marriage seriously – one of the standing jokes around campus is “It’s spring, do you have the Ring?”

Our client, let’s call him “Dan,” had some definite ideas about what he wanted, but needed our help selecting the center stone and developing the design.  He also had female “helpers” – friends of the couple who knew more about jewelry than he did. Of course, since he’s a student, his budget was pretty much fixed.

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The Bloom is on the Gold

November 22nd, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

We recently followed a thread on the Orchid forum about “bloomed” gold. We have a beautiful example of bloomed gold in our estate department, a great Art Nouveau ring set with a very nice precious coral cameo and diamonds.

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What is a “picture” stone?

November 20th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Sometimes a gemstone can surprise us in very unexpected ways, painting a picture in the mind of the beholder.  A couple of years ago, I opened a shipment of opals from Lightning Ridge, Australia and was absolutely “rocked” by this magnificent boulder opal.

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Jeweler’s Tears, Chapter One

November 15th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

While photographing gems for our website, I was working with a really beautiful Australian opal, a “picture” stone with lots of bright red rolling flash. We shoot with a 100 mm f/2.8 macro lens mated to a Canon Rebel XT in our ImageDome, and can really get great close-ups.  Looking through the camera, I noticed some fine lines in the face of the opal that I hadn’t seen before.  My first thought was “Oh no!”

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I’m Too Poor to Buy Cheap, Chapter One

November 11th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Recently, I asked the staff at Mardon for ideas and suggestions for this Blog.  My beautiful wife Kaye told me about a dream she had about her grandfather, who was a businessman during the Great Depression of the 1930’s.  She remembers him always saying, “I’m too poor to buy cheap”.  Lately, I’ve been pondering the dilemma posed by the difficult economy we all face today, so this simple phrase really struck home.

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Trick or Treat! The Unfolding of the Andesine Scam

October 31st, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Humans have always tinkered with natural gem materials and tried to make them better, either by polishing, carving, faceting, coloring, clarifying etc. It’s our nature to try to make things better, to improve on nature, to want more. Some gem treatments are tricks meant to deceive, some are meant to delight.

The actual materials that form a gemstone such as a diamond or ruby are most often naturally occurring rocks, pebbles or mineral crystals. Just like native gold and silver, some of these are beautiful in their own right and can stand on their own merits as an object of beauty—the first “gem enhancement” was probably just a really good washing.

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Thoughts on the Tom Lantos Block Burmese Jade Act of 2008

October 20th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

I just had a very interesting conversation this morning with Paul Levin, one of my best gem dealers, just returned from a buying trip to the Orient.  He’s always willing to talk freely and really knows the colored gem market. Paul was in Bangkok where he saw a vast scarcity of material, in particular fine ruby and sapphire (which is all he buys).   Many jewelry and gem firms have closed their doors, their workers returning to the countryside and farms, mainly because the worldwide business slowdown has created a severe drop-off in the market for lower quality gemstones.  The whole key to gem mining is being able to sell the lower quality—when that market dries up, the miners just can’t afford to mine anything.  The high grade is always a small percentage of the overall production, so the normal shortage for fine material is exacerbated.  As a result, prices for fine material are substantially higher for the small quantity of goods available.  1 ct.+ rubies I saw from Paul last year at $3700 per carat are now $4500 per carat.   More and more dollars are chasing fewer and fewer goods.

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Wonder Woman Cameo

October 2nd, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

We recently acquired this striking coral cameo brooch, depicting Diana, the Roman goddess of the Moon- you  can see the crescent moon in her hair.  Diana was synonymous with Artemis of the Greek pantheon.

The style of the brooch is similar to other Mid Victorian “Etruscan Revival” pieces we have seen, with very delicate twisted wire ornamentation and richly colored gold, so we think the piece probably dates from the mid 1800’s, perhaps 1860-70.

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One for the Portfolio

September 18th, 2008 by James L. Sweaney, CGA, FGA. GG

Recently we created this beautiful sapphire and diamonds engagement ring for a young couple.  Several things are noteworthy about the ring.  First, it’s a classic 3 stone design that has been enhanced with additional micro-pave’ diamonds down the shank, as well as the delicate leaf and vine decoration on the sides—the customer’s idea.  Jenny and Jim collaborated in developing and executing the design via our CAD/CAM system, and Scott beautifully finished and set the ring, while the client cheered us on!

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